Day 8 - Travel through Time in the John Day Fossil Beds

Miles  Driven - 101
Total Miles -     653
Clyde Holliday State park to Ochoco Pass NF Campground

We began the day driving west down the John Day River valley.  Being May, it is still green.  Never having driven this section of Oregon before, it was pretty neat.  My main impression of central Oregon had been over by Bend, and also along the basalt bluffs of Columbia River where it is dry desert sage brush.  Amazed at the ranches, pine forests, and beauty.

In eastern Oregon lies one of the most complete natural history of the past 60 million years.  The John Day Fossil Beds National Monument occupies 3 main units in eastern Oregon.  We visited 2 units.  Driving west from John Day, Oregon we follow the river through the narrow Picture Gorge where we see 17 different volcanic layers each representing over 8,000 years of time.

Picture Gorge.  17 volcanic layers averaging 8,000 yrs each.

This is an amazing place.  Essentially, there are layers of volcanic ash dating back 40 + million years ago in which fossils the whole Mammal Age can be found.

The monument was inaugurated in 1975 with 3 distinct units.  We first visited the Visitor Center on the John Day River, spending 3 hours touring one of the best educational displays we have ever seen, which covers each era of which there about 8-10.

Amazing displays at Visitor Center

We then drove further north to the first unit, the Blue Basin and pulled into the parking lot trusting there would be room to turn around.

John Day River Valley near Blue Basin

 We were assured by the ranger that we could turn around in the parking lots so we headed in.  There was room.  Whew.  Ya never know.

Backside of blue Basin Overlook Trail looking north

Two hikes were recommended. We set off on the Overlook trail first  which took us around the backside then steep switchbacks up about 800 feet to the overlook.

Overlook of the Blue Basin

We hiked about a mile along the rim before descending via switchbacks to the center of the canyon.

Most of our photos were shot with the iPhone, however I did manage to shoot a couple with the big Canon.  They will be on my Flickr page.

Is it really that blue down there?

 The second hike took us down into the center of the canyon.

Blue and Green Volcanic Tuff with many layers on top

The blues and greens are volcanic Tuff layed down 30+million years ago. Over time, many layers heaped on top caused compression and metamorphosis of the tuff turning it these fascinating colors

Yep, it's blue all right

 All during the hike, CharLi and Mr. Toad waited faithfully in the parking lot.  Just barely fitting in.

Charli and Mr. Toad waited in the parking lot, waaaayyy down there.

Our second visit was to the Painted hills unit about an hours drive west.  It was after 5 PM when we departed back to the main highway, over a mountain pass, down into another river valley, north 6 miles just hoping we arrive in time before the sun pops behind clouds for rest of night.

Painted hills.  Also Volcanic Tuff like blue basin.  Just different color

We were not disappointed.  In fact the clouds accommodated us quite nicely, darkening the distant hills and accentuating the painted hills.  Photos do not really depict how incredible the beauty really is.

Love the 10 second delay on the big camera.

We didn't want to leave but had to head out at almost 8 PM because we didn't know where we would camp this night and still had, maybe an hour of useable light left to park.  After all, there are no Walmarts around here.

Shooting the Painted hills.  I only had about 20 minutes of good light.

We drove back out to the main road.  Along the way we did see one possible BLM dry site, however, with the fading light, was not sure we could make it in there and didn't know about rain overnight leaving the road muddy and stranding us.  Such wusses we are.  Plus we did know of a Forest Service campground up on Ochoco Pass (4723' elevation) which we thought would have space for us.  

Turns out we found a sweet pull through and cost us only $6 to camp in the tamarack and pine forest.  We pulled in around 8:45, dropped the levelers and out go the slides.  Sraddha had started some Posole early in the morning which just needed to be reheated and seasoned.  We ate, listening to the wind rustling in the trees and slept soundly, quite satisfied of a full day or hiking, learning, and being in some incredible natural beauty we had not even imagined a few days before.

A Big, BIG Boo Boo and The Colorado Monument

Where the heck is The Colorado National Monument?  Well, in Colorado of course. It is near Grand Junction, Colorado off Interstate 70.  Fruita, Colorado, specifically.

Digression time - Departing Black Canyon of the Gunnison, we descended the 5 mile road to the highway without the Jeep attached figuring it would be easier on the RV brakes.  I had run our preflight checklist for departure and missed a very important step.  When we arrived at the bottom Sraddha noticed something dragging.  Our 50 Amp power cord.  Destroyed. Oh no!  We cannot hook up tonight for power.  We had planned to stay in a state park.  What to do?  Fortunately we have the internet.  I googled RV repair in Grand Junction.  Found 2 plaees.  Reached on service department who scheduled me in for early afternoon.  Whew.  We arrived Grand Junction around 1:30 and dropped off the RV.  We picked out a new one and headed out for for some shopping and to check out the state park.  They installed it and we were back out the door by 4 PM off to the new campsite. With $200 less in our pockets. Whew.  Another bullet dodged.

"Sometimes you eat the bear, and sometimes the bear eats you."  An old adage I have heard years ago. This time we ate the bear so to speak.  Dodged a bullet.  Didn't panic. Well a little bit of "oh Rats" but Sraddha bucked me up with her positive attitude.  She even drove back to campsite to find the adapter which was fell off.  Ok, ok, true confession time.  When I drove out of the campsite, I had not disconnected the power cord.  Senior moment here?  Fortunately no damaged to the power post at the campground that we know of.  Drug the cord 5 miles down the highway at 25-35 mph. Must have been a sight.

Anyway, I digress.  

Colorado National Monument

Up until 10 days ago we had no idea this place existed until someone we met in a campground told us about it.

Independence Rock

Only 2 hours from Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park, it completes the circuit for us of all the National Parks and Monuments in the greater four corners region encompassing Arizona, Utah, Colorado and New Mexico.

The Coke Ovens

We departed the repair shop in Grand Junction and arrived late afternoon at the State park in Fruita, to overcast, winds and threatening rain, setting up camp at James M Robb, Colorado River State Park.  A very tidy campground nestled along the Colorado River.


We set up camp and headed up to visitor center on the mesa overlooking the Monument.  Wow.  (Do I keep saying "Wow" a lot?).  Sraddha stubbed her big toe tearing part of the toenail off the toe, when opening the door to visitor center and bled all over.  (no photos). I ran to get the first aid kit and some paper towels.  We cleaned it up, patched her torn up toe.

Our view out front Window.  Colorado Monument in background

She was not able to go hiking nor will for several days.  So we drove around the rim admiring the sights.  The light was really pretty neat, reminding me of the light last year as we toured the rim of Canyon de Chelly.

Another angle

I was able to shoot some nice HDR from the rim.  Too bad we couldn't hike down in.  Next time.  Hopefully without damaging the power cord.  Oh yes,  I also had to replace the shower hose which wore out.  At least we are clean!

We decided to take a down day