Day 8 - Travel through Time in the John Day Fossil Beds

Miles  Driven - 101
Total Miles -     653
Clyde Holliday State park to Ochoco Pass NF Campground

We began the day driving west down the John Day River valley.  Being May, it is still green.  Never having driven this section of Oregon before, it was pretty neat.  My main impression of central Oregon had been over by Bend, and also along the basalt bluffs of Columbia River where it is dry desert sage brush.  Amazed at the ranches, pine forests, and beauty.

In eastern Oregon lies one of the most complete natural history of the past 60 million years.  The John Day Fossil Beds National Monument occupies 3 main units in eastern Oregon.  We visited 2 units.  Driving west from John Day, Oregon we follow the river through the narrow Picture Gorge where we see 17 different volcanic layers each representing over 8,000 years of time.

Picture Gorge.  17 volcanic layers averaging 8,000 yrs each.

This is an amazing place.  Essentially, there are layers of volcanic ash dating back 40 + million years ago in which fossils the whole Mammal Age can be found.

The monument was inaugurated in 1975 with 3 distinct units.  We first visited the Visitor Center on the John Day River, spending 3 hours touring one of the best educational displays we have ever seen, which covers each era of which there about 8-10.

Amazing displays at Visitor Center

We then drove further north to the first unit, the Blue Basin and pulled into the parking lot trusting there would be room to turn around.

John Day River Valley near Blue Basin

 We were assured by the ranger that we could turn around in the parking lots so we headed in.  There was room.  Whew.  Ya never know.

Backside of blue Basin Overlook Trail looking north

Two hikes were recommended. We set off on the Overlook trail first  which took us around the backside then steep switchbacks up about 800 feet to the overlook.

Overlook of the Blue Basin

We hiked about a mile along the rim before descending via switchbacks to the center of the canyon.

Most of our photos were shot with the iPhone, however I did manage to shoot a couple with the big Canon.  They will be on my Flickr page.

Is it really that blue down there?

 The second hike took us down into the center of the canyon.

Blue and Green Volcanic Tuff with many layers on top

The blues and greens are volcanic Tuff layed down 30+million years ago. Over time, many layers heaped on top caused compression and metamorphosis of the tuff turning it these fascinating colors

Yep, it's blue all right

 All during the hike, CharLi and Mr. Toad waited faithfully in the parking lot.  Just barely fitting in.

Charli and Mr. Toad waited in the parking lot, waaaayyy down there.

Our second visit was to the Painted hills unit about an hours drive west.  It was after 5 PM when we departed back to the main highway, over a mountain pass, down into another river valley, north 6 miles just hoping we arrive in time before the sun pops behind clouds for rest of night.

Painted hills.  Also Volcanic Tuff like blue basin.  Just different color

We were not disappointed.  In fact the clouds accommodated us quite nicely, darkening the distant hills and accentuating the painted hills.  Photos do not really depict how incredible the beauty really is.

Love the 10 second delay on the big camera.

We didn't want to leave but had to head out at almost 8 PM because we didn't know where we would camp this night and still had, maybe an hour of useable light left to park.  After all, there are no Walmarts around here.

Shooting the Painted hills.  I only had about 20 minutes of good light.

We drove back out to the main road.  Along the way we did see one possible BLM dry site, however, with the fading light, was not sure we could make it in there and didn't know about rain overnight leaving the road muddy and stranding us.  Such wusses we are.  Plus we did know of a Forest Service campground up on Ochoco Pass (4723' elevation) which we thought would have space for us.  

Turns out we found a sweet pull through and cost us only $6 to camp in the tamarack and pine forest.  We pulled in around 8:45, dropped the levelers and out go the slides.  Sraddha had started some Posole early in the morning which just needed to be reheated and seasoned.  We ate, listening to the wind rustling in the trees and slept soundly, quite satisfied of a full day or hiking, learning, and being in some incredible natural beauty we had not even imagined a few days before.

Day 6 - Change in Plans, Trip through Mountains

Miles Traveled - 108
Total Miles - 552
Departed - Narrows at Malheur National Wildlife Refuge
Arrived - Clyde Holliday State Park, east of John Day, Oregon

Due to a really good deal we actually had save $20 by booking the Narrows RV park for 4 nights. We spent another fun morning birding at Park HQ with Turtle and Hawk at Headquarters we saw numerous small birds and a few in flight.  We had met Bob and Bettina down in Patagonia Lake last winter.  Good birders!

3 great birders and one clueless shooter

We returned to the RV late morning for a nice salad brunch (not normal eating around here, let me tell you). As we were finishing up, I asked the question:

Me - So what do you want to do for the rest of the day.

Her - Oh, I am trying to figure out what birding to do..Do I want to go look for those burrowing owls?

Me - I have an idea. (uh oh)  It's still early in the day and the day is long.  Let's head out of here up north, refuel in Burns and check out that pesky Jeep tire with slow leak, then see if we want to spend the night at Idlywild campground up in the mountain forest?  If not then keep going.  Whaddya think?

Her - Hmm.  Yeah, I am ready to move on.

And just like that we began to pack up.  I still had the blog post to finish with XXX rated bird photos

so she began packing up.  When I finished, we then completed the packing (about 20 minutes), dumped waste, hooked up and off we go.

We stopped at Idlewild campground about 17 miles north of Burns around 2:30.  Nice forest service campground with 3 pull throughs in which we would have fit.  We walked around for about an hour looking for the Black Backed Wooedpecker whom our friends, Turtle and Hawk, had seen last week. Would have been a new bird sighting for Sraddha, however we just weren't' feeling it.

This is the great thing about not having a fixed schedule we really like.  We looked at each other and agreed that is was, again, time to move on.  I love flexibility and spontaneity.  Very different from even 6 months ago.

Long story short, we drove another 70 miles to John Day, then west 8 miles to Clyde Holliday State Park.  Now this park is on the John Day river and absolutely beautiful.  Yet right near highway.  AND they don't take reservations.  We gambled that, since it was the end of Memorial Day weekend, there might just be a couple sites open, which there were.  Not the prime sites, but we managed to select a decent site, unhooked, drove down the reverse direction so we could back in easily and settled in for the night.

Instead of departing Malheur Refuge with 140 miles to drive to the John Day Fossil Beds, we are not less than 30 miles to go this morning.  Good decision.

our campsite at Clyde Holliday State Park

Days 4 and 5 - Birds of Malheur National Wildlife Refuge - XXX rated post ;)

No RV miles.  Whew

Driving around Malheur 

The Refuge we are visiting.

What an amazing place at this time of the year.  Thousands of visitors come here, especially over Memorial Day weekend. We stayed at the Narrows RV park just a few miles from park HQ.

We spent 2 mornings with our friends Bob and Bettina, and also toured the south end Central Patrol Road down by Frenchglen where we saw a Trumpeter Swan family with chicks.  This is where i get out the big super telephoto lens.

Trumpeter Swan Family

A new bird was the Bobolink.  Very rare in west, they do breed in this section of the Malheur.  Late May and early June are the times to see the males in their plumage so we were here at the right time.

Bobolink

Another treat was to witness a pair of mating Avocets.  As we were watching other birds in same area, I noticed this one avocet with its head down for the longest time.  If finally dawned on me that they were courting.  Suddenly the courtship got real serious and he jumped on top of her, then they danced and parted.  Here is a short series of this scene.

Hey Good Lookin!  Wanna Dance?

Yahoo!

Oh, yes.  That was just great! 

Is this a lifetime commitment?

Let's try the Polka

You can view these photos and many others in high resolution over at the Birds of Malheur Refuge as a slide show over on my photo website and some on flickr too.

We pressed our luck one evening when we drove out west on a dirt road looking for Burrowing owls. We had been told they were out on this road but we drove almost 20 miles in one direction before giving up and turning around.  On way back we had to negotiate with a herd of horses and mules blocking the road.  Sweethearts all.

Is there a toll here?  no sugar.

All in all, it was a real fun time.  We are heading out and hope to be back someday.

Days 3 - DUST, DUST, DUST Hart Mountain to Malheur National Wildlife Refuge, Oregon

Todays Miles - RV- 84; Jeep 64

Total Miles - RV - 444; Jeep 64

Departed - Hart Mountain National Antelope Refuge

Arrived - Malheur National Wildlife Refuge


You might say we are, ahem, "Refugee's".....

The Route

Our route takes us across a 40 mile gravel road.  Recently we drove 20 miles over gravel to Chaco Canyon so we weren't worried.  It was good road and the views were incredible. We did see some antelope too.  Too far away for photos tho.

The Long, Long Gravel Road (40 miles)

We made the blacktop north towards Frenchglen which is south end of Malheur.  Just before Frenchglen we faced a 3 mile, 14% downhill grade.  Thankful for towhaul feature which downshifts to lower gears thereby saving our brakes.

Down a 14% grade  Yikes

We then drove 30 miles north to Narrows where we find an RV park. We thought to stay only 3 days but the price for 4 days was significanly cheaper so we are staying 4 nights.  You know who, the birder, is pleased.

This 70 miles of gravel road was rather dusty

The bad news is we discovered dust in all compartments and coating the whole RV.  Inside and outside the jeep.  We drive into Burns (30 miles north) to buy some fresh produce pick up a package at the Post Office (see bottom) and also to wash, vacuum and clean the jeep inside and out.  We took everything out of the jeep. As we cleaned, a major thunderstorm approached blowing all the little stuff everywhere.  Yikes.

First things first,  we wash and clean Mr. Toad

We managed to clean the jeep despite blowing gusts up to 40 mph. Later in the evening back at the RV we witnessed a wonderful sunset then the rain started.  after about an hour, before it was totally dark, we put on our rain jackets, went outside, and wiped down CharLi the RV.  Woo Hoo.  Clean and saved $40 cleaning fees.

Sunset before the rain at Malheur

This is an amazing place. Major stopover for the Pacific Flyway.  It is amazing the number of bird species we are seeing here.  Have seen Trumperter Swans, mating Avocets, Terns, small birds and many more. I have over 20 good photos already at my photo site kentwilliamsphotography.com and will post some shots on flickr.

"BIRD!!!"

We initially came here to meet our new birding freinds, Turtle and Hawk (aka "Point and Shoot").  They are full timers recently retired who sold their home in Ashland and now travel around volunteering to help on various bird surveys.

Intriguing bicycle.  Love the Faux Fur!

We drove back down to Frenchglen then back up the Central Patrol Road.

Bensen Lake where Trumpeter Swans are

Next post will be about some of these birds.

Our morning coffee system

Oh, yes,  We just received some incredible coffee from Peets, via General Delivery. We have discovered that, while traveling, we can have packages shipped to General Delivery Post Office Zip Code.  They will hold for 30 days.  We get things from Amazon, mail shipped from Ananda Village and Ananda Laurelwood and also Peets Coffee which we received at Burns P.O.  A special roast, we tried yesterday and today.  Yum.  We are ordering more.  It makes the mornings so great!

Day 2 - Back in Oregon. Hart Mountain Antelope Refuge

Todays Miles - 135

Total Miles - 360

Departed - Likely, CA

Arrived - Hot Springs Campground, Hart Mountain National Antelope Refuge

Note we are already days behind in posts as we had no internet at Hart Mountain. We dumped waste, filled water tanks and prepared for next phase.  

Out the campsite early, we headed north to Lakeview, Oregon. 

 Hurray, back in Oregon. Feels good.

Looking out north onto Lakeview area

We stopped in Lakeview for refuel (regular was $3.95, $0.25 cheaper than Alturas).  We also made some phone calls (yeah cell service) and ate brunch.

East on highway to Plush, Oregon

 The Oregon high desert is really pretty amazing.  4,000-7,000 ft with mountains over 8,000 feet they pale in comparison to the Rockies and Sierras.  

However, the vista's are amazingly beautiful.  Simply your basic wide open spaces. We look out on the Hart mountains in the distance.  Geologically it is a fault block where one edge, in this case the western edge, raises up and the other side is very gradual.  We have seen quite a few in the west.

 Lots of sagebrush and open road.  No antelopes yet though

 We drive past ranches and farms, admiring the space and quiet it represents.

 Home, Home on the Range!  Where the deer and the antelope play.

 We stop to check out an old Civilian Conservation Corps campground.  Nice shape but find a map and discover there is a hot springs campground up on the top of the mountain north of the Park HQ.

 Up we go on the gravel road which just has been paved.  Later we hear there are some big horn sheep in area which we missed seeing. Next time.

 We get to the top at HQ, stop to get our bearings and disconnec Mr. Toad.  Seems best idea to first dust off the jeep before we disconnect. Another visitor remarks that it seems a lost cause due to the remaing 50 miles of gravel road but we mainly do it to keep it off ourselves.

 No rangers around to ask questions so we consult the map and drive 4 miles south from HQ over a hill into a lovely little valley lined with Aspens.  Sraddha, in the jeep, scouts out possible campsites amongst all available.  Very primitive, yet beautiful.  We find a camp host site with no camp host and I drive over the little creek through Aspen forest.

 We set up camp at the host site.  No water or electrical in campground.  Just pit toilets but my, oh my, what a lovely spot, except for one thing.

 The one thing turns out to be mosquitoes.  We had hoped to sit ouside in the evening but decided not to.  Nevertheless we had a wonderful time.

Hot Springs Campsite.

One great benefit, other than stunning beauty, was the hot springs.  After setting up camp we drove over and jumped in.  Visited with some fun young people who told us about the meteor shower Friday night.

 It was refreshing but not too hot.  I tried the nearby stream to cool off. 

Looking out from our campsite.

 We were tempted to stay another night and watch the meteor shower, then get to Malheur late but we had made a date with our friends, Turtle and Hawk for Saturday morning birding, so we headed out Friday morning.  Glad we did.  Turned out the rain and clouds prevented the viewing of the shower.  But that is another story......